Method and means for making neckties



Dec. 1, 1942. 'v; N T L, 2,304,011

METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Oct. 4, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet ll illinn i nli I h T V 7 INVENTOR M41 EA/77A/E MFMA/ 3 I iORNEY 1, 1942.v. NAFTALI METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed 001;. 4, .1938 sSheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR ORNEY MIZENT/NF A/nFm/ I x v Dec. 1, 1942. v.NAFTALI METHOD AND MEANS FOR MAKING .NECKTIES Filed Oct. 4, .1.958 3Sheets-Sheet 3 ATTQ NE'Y Patented Dec. 1, 1942 METHOD AND MEANS FORMAKING NECKTIES Valentine Naftali, NewYork, N. Y., assignor to AmericanMachine & Foundry Company, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New JerseyApplication October 4, 1938, Serial No. 233,168

Claims. (01. 223-1) This invention relates generally to neckties. Moreparticularly, my invention relates to an improved method and means forpreparing necktie fabrics for stitching.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide an improved method andmeans for gauging opposite longitudinal edges of a cut to patternnecktie fabric so that the same may be properly folded in relation to apredetermined line of stitching and so that the bias line of the necktiefabric will be parallel to the longitudinal aXis of the completed tie inorder to obtain maximum stretch and resilience.

Another object of my invention is to provide an improved method andmeans for manufacturing self-lined neckties.

A further object of my invention is to provide an improved method andmeans for preparing necktie fabrics in relation to a predetermined lineof stitching which shall be simple and inexpensive to practice, whichshall comprise relatively few and simple parts, and which, at the sametime, shall be highly efiicient and practical for the purposes intended.

Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in parthereinafter pointed out.

Th invention accordingly consists in the features of construction,combinations of elements and arrangement of parts which will beexemplifled in the construction hereinafter described,

and of which the scope of application will be indicated in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the variouspossible embodiments of this invention;

Fig. l is a plan view of a necktie fabric gauging apparatus constructedin accordance with my invention and illustrating a step in my improvedmethod of manufacture;

Fig. 2 is a View similar to Fi 1 but illustratfing a further step in myimproved method of manufacture; Fig. 3 is an enlarged cross-sectionalview taken ing the completed necktie of my Fig. 6 form of invention; I

Fig. 9 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on theline 99 of Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a View similar to Figs. 2 and 6 but illustrating stillanother modified form of my invention;

Fig. 11 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken substantially on theline Hll of Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is a view similar to Fig. 1 but showing another modified form ofmy invention;

Fig. 13 is an enlarged cross-sectional View taken substantially on theline |3-|3 of Fig. 12 but showing the tie fabric in folded position;

Fig. 14 is an elevational view of the necktie fabric shown in Fig. 10after the same has been provided with a longitudinal straight line ofstitching; and

Fig. l5is an enlarged cross-sectional View similar to Fig. 5 butillustrating the construction of the Fig: 14 form'of necktie whenreversed.

In the drawings, I have illustrated my invention as applied to a methodof manufacturing neckties such as disclosed and described in the patentto R. Naftali et al., No. Re. 19,653, dated July2'3, 1935.Briefiystated,such method comprises folding a flat necktie fabriclongitudinally with the wrong side outermost in relation to apredetermined line of stitching, and then mounting the folded fabric ona frame. The frame is placed on a suitable stitching machine where it isstitched with a longitudinal line of loose stitching. The tubularnecktie casing thus formed is then turned inside out or reversed and,after pressing, a completed necktie is obtained. It is understood,however, that any other suitable necktie stitching means may be employedin connection with my invention.

In the manufacture of neckties of'the character described, it is oftendesirable for the purposes of economy and in order to obtain maximumresilience and stretch in the finished necktie, to cut the necktiefabrics of unsymmetrical peripheral contour with respect to thelongitudinal axes thereof. In such cases, it is essential that thenecktie fabric be accurately folded longitudinally with respect to theposition of a predetermined line of stitching. While this is true in themaking of neckties having a separate lining, it is particularly true inthe manufacture of the type of neckties known as self-lined neckties. Insuch self-lined neckties, there is no separate lining attached to thefabric during the stitching operation, but instead the fabric is so Fig.8 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but illustrate cut that after it islongitudinally folded and.

stitched, and the tubular necktie fabric thus formed is reversed, anintegral portion or portions of the layer will be disposed between thefolded fabric layers to serve as a lining.

Referring now in detail to the drawings and more particularly to Figs. 1to 5 and to 15, I will first describe my invention as applied to themanufacture of self-lined neckties. In the Figs 1 to 5 form of myinvention, a necktie fabric 20 is cut to any desired shape, such as forexample that shown in Fig. l. The fabric 29 is also preferably cut onthe bias to obtain maximum resilience and stretch for the completed tie.It is then placed, with the right side facing upwardly, upon a flatsurface 24 of any suitable table member 22. The table 22 may be providedwith a longitudinal groove 23, the purpose of which will soon becomeapparent. In order to properly position the tie fabric 20 on the surface2| so that it may be properly folded longitudinally in relation to thelocation of a subsequent predetermined line of stitching and so that thebias line will be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the completedtie, I have provided. a gauge member 25 which may be fastened to thetable 22 by any suitable means, such as for example, the screws 26.Slots 26a. may be provided in the gauge member 25, through which thescrews 25 are adapted to pass, so that the member 25 may be adjustablymoved as desired. It is noted that the inner longitudinal edge 25a ofthe gauge 25 is shaped to conform to the contour of the adjacentlydisposed longitudinal edge ac of the necktie fabric 29. If desired,after the said fabric 20 has thus been properly positioned with respectto the gauge member 25, it maybe temporarily retained in such positionby a series of spaced retaining clamps 21. The said clamps 21 may be ofany desired construction, such as that clearly shown in Fgi. 3 of thedrawings, in which a bell crank member 23 is rotatably supported on abracket by the pivot 29. One arm 28a of the member 28 is adapted tooverlie a portion of the unfolded necktie fabric 20, and is providedwith a pin projection 30 on the underside thereof.

This projection 36 is adapted to pierce the fabric 29 to temporarilyretain the fabric in the above described guaged position in abuttingrelationship with the edge 25a. If desired, suitable recesses 33 may beprovided in the table member 22 to protectively receive the points oftheprojections 3itherein. The clamp members 28 are designed to be innormally ineffective position by means of a spring 3|, one end of whichis fixed to a pin 32a mounted on the gauge 25 and the other end thereofbeing fixed to a point 32 on the arm 28a. It is noted that the point 32is spaced from the axis of the pivot 29 so that the spring 3! will tendto hold the member 28 in effective clamping position as shown in Fig. 3.If the bell crank 28 is rotated in a clockwise direction, it is seenthat the spring 3| will tend to retain the same in a position in whichthe projections 30 are withdrawn from the fabric 20 and recesses 33.

Instead of the clamps 27, the type of clamp 21' illustrated in Figs. 10to 13 may be employed. Such clamp 21 may comprise an arm 55 pivotallymounted at one end thereof on a fixed bracket 56. The opposite end ofthe arm 55 from the pivoted end may be provided with a gripping portion,such as for example a rubber tip, or a pin 51 as shown and adapted. topierce the necktie fabric. The next step in my improved process is to sofold the necktie fabric 20 longitudinally with relation to a subsequentpredetermined line of stitching, that an integral portion thereof willserve as a lining after the tubular tie fabric has been reversed asabove described. Also, in accordance with my invention, I have devised amethod and means for so folding the necktie fabric that the "bias lineof the finished necktie will coincide with the longitudinal axis of thenecktie or be parallel thereto. To this end, I have provided a secondgauge member 35, which may be hingedly attached to the gauge member '25and which is shown in Fig. 1 in open or ineffective position.

After the unfolded necktie fabric 20 has been temporarily confined bythe clamps 21, as above described, the gauge member 35 is pivotallymoved from the open position shown in Fig. 1 to the closed positionshown in Figs. 2 and 3, in which the gauge member 35 overlies a portionof the gauge member 25. The free gauging edge 35a of the member 35 isshaped to conform to the corresponding portion of the longitudinal edgea'bof the fabric 20, and projects beyond the edge 25a of the member 25,to serve as a gauge for the tie fabric edge a'c when the fabric 25 isfolded horizontally. In the form of my invention illustrated in Figs. 1and 2, the opposed longitudinal edges of the folded necktie fabric 20are designed to substantially meet at the gauge surface 25a forsubstantially half the length of the tie, in other words, fromapproximately the points a, a to approximately the points b, b. However,from the points I), b to the points 0, c the opposed longitudinal edgesof the necktie fabric 21!, when folded, will not meet but will be spacedfrom each other an amount equal to the distance which the gauge edge35:: projects beyond the gauge edge 25a. After the gauge member 35 hasbeen placed in effective position as shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings,the fabric 20 is folded horizontally so that the longitudinal edge a'cis continuously disposed in relation to the new gauging edge formed bythe combined gauges 25 and 35. Thus, the longitudinal edge portion a'bis gauged on the gauge surface 25a, while the longitudinal edge portionbc is gauged on the surface 359.. In the folded position, as abovedescribed, the necktie fabric is properly aligned with respect to apredetermined subsequent line of stitching, and to a central bias line.While in Figs. 1 and 2 I have shown my second gauge member 35 asdisposed at the right-hand half of thetie fabric, it is understood thatthe gauge member 35 may be disposed at the left-hand end or at thecentral portion of the fabric 20. Also, ,if desired, the gauge member 35may be substantially coextensive in length with the gauge member 25..Also, instead of hingedly mounting the-second gauge member 35 on thegauge member ,25, ,it may be independent and normally unattached.

In order to facilitate the process of manufacturing, there may bemounted .for cooperation with the gauging mechanism above described, aremovable clamp for maintaining the folded fabric in position during thestitching operation. Such clamp is designed to be mounted on a tiestitching machine and may be of any suitable construction, such asforexample, that shown and described in the co-pending applicationSerial No. 36,634, filed August 17, 1935. Such clamp may comprise ashaft 40 rotatably supported in a pair of bifurcated brackets 4M open at'the top, and which are fixed to the table-122.

The shaft 43 is designed to be readily removed from the brackets 4|.Fixed to the shaft 40 are a plurality of arms 42 which are freelyrotatable thereon. The arms 42 are designed to have rigidly attachedthereto at their outer free ends, a stitch gauge comb 43. The comb 43 isprovided, on its flat side, with pins 44 (see Fig. 1). Rigidly fixed tothe shaft 40 are a plurality of arms 45 carrying at the free endsthereof a rod member 46, said rod member being normally designed to bereceived in the groove 23. Recessed portions 50 may be provided in thetable 22 so that the arms 45 will underlie the fabric 20. After thefabric has been folded, as above described, the comb 43 is pivotallymoved from the position shown in Fig. 1 to the position shown in Figs. 2and 3, overlying the folded fabric. In such position the pins 44 willpierce the folded fabrics and hold the same in proper alignment, afterwhich the temporary clamping members 21 may be removed and the entireframe lifted from the brackets M for attachment to a suitable tiestitching machine. Recesses may be provided in the rod 46 toprotectively receive the points of the projections 44.

- After the stitching operation has been completed, and the clampremoved, the tubular tie casing thus formed is reversed and the backthereof will appear as shown inFig. l. The apparatus for gauging thefold of the fabric may be so designed, as described above, that anintegral portion 20a of the necktie fabric 28 will be disposed withinthe tubular tie casing to serve as a lining therefor, as clearly shownin Fig. 5'. It is also seen that the distance between the longitudinaledges b'c', and bc, when the fabric is folded, will be equal to thedistance which the gauge edge 35a overhangs the gauge edge 25a.

While in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings the larger end of the necktiefabric is shown as being disposed at the right hand end of the gaugemember and 35, it is understood that my invention may also besatisfactorily practiced with the larger end of the fabric disposed atthe left hand end of said gauges.

It is also to be understood that the necktie fabric 20 may be designedto have a peripheral contour such that it would be necessary for theedge 35a of the gauge member 35 to be spaced inwardly from the gaugeedge 25a instead of overhanging the same as shown in Fig. 2 of thedrawings, and my invention extends to such construction.

In Figs. 6 to 9 I have disclosed my invention as applied to afour-in-hand necktie made from a necktie fabric cut to a differentpattern from that of the fabric 20. In this type of tie construction thedistance between the opposed longitudinal edges m-y and .ry' of the tiefabric, when folded as shown in Fig. 7, is substantially the samethroughout the length of the fabric. In the manufacture of this type ofnecktie, it is therefore necessary to provide gauging mechanism designedfor separately gauging the longitudinal edge a:'-y and. the entirelongitudinal edge xy after the same has been folded. To this end I haveconstructed my gauging apparatus as shown in Fig. 6, in which there isprovided a gauge member 25', similar to the gauge 25, and having an edge25a designed to gauge the longitudinal edge a:y of the tie fabric 20'.When the fiat tie fabric 20' has been suitably positioned on the table22 and gauged with respect to the gauge edge 25a, as hereinbefore theedge :ry thereof gauged against the edge 35a of the overlying gaugemember 35' similar in construction and in function to that of the gauge35. After properly independently gauging both longitudinal edges of thefolded fabric 20,

as above described, the same may be held in such folded gauged positionby the removable clamp device hereinbefore described, and mounted on asuitable tie stitching machine where it is provided with a predeterminedlongitudinal row of stitching 50 to form a tubular tie casing. When thesaid tubular tie casing is reversed, it appears as shown in Figs. 8 and9.

While in Figs. 7 and 9 of the drawings I have illustrated this form ofmy invention as applied to an unlined four-in-hand necktie, it isunderstood that a suitable tie lining may also be properly superimposedupon and attached to the folded fabric 20 by the line of stitching 50,so that upon reversing, the said lining will be disposed within thetubular fabric.

By my invention I have also provided a novel method and means for makingself-lined neckties from fabrics which have been cut substantiallysymmetrically with respect to the longitudinal axis thereof. 1

As shown in Figs. 10, 11, 14 and 15, I have provided a single gaugemember 50, adjustably mounted on the table member 22 by means of thescrews 26 and slots 26a. The gauge member 60 is provided with a gaugingedge 68a which is designed for gauging the two opposed edges mn and 021of the longitudinally folded necktie fabric 6!.

The gauge 60 is so positioned on the table 22 with respect to framemember 43 that a subsequent predetermined line of stitching 62 made bythe tie stitching machine will result in a tubular tie fabric as shownin Fig. 14 of the draw-v ings. When this tubular tie fabric has beenreversed, it will appear in transverse cross section as in Fig 15 of thedrawings. It is noted that the adjacent fabric portions from the line ofstitching 62 to both longitudinal edges m, n and o, p will serve as tielinings to form a self-lined necktie. It is also noted that in this formof my invention, the bias line of the finished necktie will be parallelto the longitudinal axis thereof.

In Figs. 12 and 13 of the drawings I have shown a modified form of myinvention in which, instead of temporarily confining the fiat necktiefabric I0 before folding, I prefer to first gauge the longitudinal edget-u on the gauge edge Ha of the gauge member ll, then fold the fabric I0longitudinally, at the same time gauging the opposed longitudinal edgev-w on the gauge edge 12a of the second gauge member 12 after it hasbeen positioned in its effective position as shown in full lines in Fig.13. Then I temporarily confine the folded fabric H'! by means of theclamps 21 mounted on the gauge member 12. The

clamps 2'! may be manually operated and are held in clamping position,as in Fig. 13, by their own weight. The dotted line position of thegauge member 12 (Fig. 13) represents the ineffective position as shownin Fig. 12.

It will thus be seen that there is provided a device in which theseveral objects of this invention are achieved, and which is welladapted to meet the conditions of practical use.

As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention,and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth,it is to be understood that all matter heredescribed, it is then foldedlongitudinally and in set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings isto b'e interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent:

1. In a method of making resilient, bias-cut neckties from a fabrichaving opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges of predetermined contour,the steps comprising, arranging said fabric on a surface in such mannerthat one longitudinal edge thereof will be in effective relationshipwith a gauge member having a contour matching the predetermined contourof said first longitudinal edge, temporarily confining said fabric insuch gauged position, folding said fabric longitudinally, and at thesame time arranging said folded fabric to position the fold line thereofin predetermined relationship relative to said opposed longitudinaledges by abutting at least a considerable portion of the opposed freelongitudinal edge of said fabric against a second gauge member having acontour matching the predetermined contour of said second longitudinaledge.

2. In a method of making resilient, bias-cut neckties from a fabrichaving opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges of predetermined contour,the steps comprising, arranging said fabric on a surface in such mannerthat one longitudinal edge thereof will be in effective relationshipwith a gauge member having a contour matching the predetermined contourof said first longitudinal edge, temporarily confining said fabric insaid gauged position, folding said fabric longitudinally and at the sametime arranging said folded fabric to position the fold line thereof inpredetermined relationship relative to said opposed longitudinal edgesby abutting at least a considerable portion of the opposed freelongitudinal edge against a second gauge member having a contourmatching the predetermined contour of said second longitudinal edge,confining said fabric in said folded and gauged position and stitchingadjacent fold fabric portions together to form a: tubular tie casing.

3. In an apparatus of the character described for preparing a resilient,bias-cut, longitudinally folded necktie fabric for stitching, saidnecktie fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges, means forarranging said folded fabric so that the fold line thereof will bedisposed in predetermined position relative to said opposed edges and toan ultimate line of stitching, said means comprising a pair of separategauge members having contours matching the contours of said opposededges, one of said gauge members being supported on the other of saidgauge members.

4. In an apparatus of the character described for preparing a resilient,bias-cut, longitudinally folded necktie fabric for stitching, saidnecktie fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges, means forarranging said folded fabric so that the fold line thereof will bedisposed in predetermined position relative to said opposed edges, saidmeans comprising a work support table, an immovable elongated gaugemember having contours matching the contours of one of said opposededges of said fabric fixed to said table, and a second elongated gaugemember having contours matching the other opposed edge of said fabricsupported on said fixed gauge, said second gauge member beingconstructed and arranged for movement into position to gauge the secondnamed opposed edge of said fabric after said first named edge has beengauged by said fixed gauge.

5. In an apparatus of the character described for preparing a resilient,bias-cut, longitudinally folded necktie fabric for stitching, saidnecktie fabric having opposed asymmetric longitudinal edges, means forarranging said folded fabric so that the fold line thereof Will bedisposed in predetermined position relative to said opposed edges and toan ultimate line of stitching, said means comprisin a work table, a pairof separate gauge members having contours matching the contours of saidopposed edges, one of said gauge members being supported on the other ofsaid gauge members, and releasable means for clamping a longitudinalgauged edge of said fabric to said work table.

VALENTINE NAF'IALI.

